Nehal : Sep 20, 2005
Got up and had breakfast before meeting everyong for our half-day tour of Volterra with our guide, Giulia. She took us around the city while covering 3000 years of history – the Etruscan gate, the baptistry and cathedral, and the (relatively) recently-discovered Roman theater. Afterwards, Lisa, Fred, Maria, Ricardo, Tom, Beth, and I went to find the Acropolis. After searching for a bit, we found it and explored what was left of the ancient cisterns. Fred and Lisa went to explore the Roman theater while the rest of us got some lunch where Maria had the best tuna fish sandwich of her life. Lunch was promptly followed up with a trip to a gelato bar. This was was quite interesting – although well-lit and causally decorated, it had a plasma TV over the entrance showing what seemed to be some type of heavy metal videos.
Now refueled, Tom, Beth, and I set out to explore the town and the Roman theater. It was awe-inspiring to be walking around a structure that was in use thousands of years ago – imagining the lives of the people who climbed it steps, sat in it seats, and performed on stage. What was even more amazing was how much of it was still intact! Over time, it had added a bath house, and then in Middle Ages, it became a garbage dump, only to be unearthed in the 1960s, I believe.
After relaxing for a bit back at the hotel, we set out for dinner. Pedro and his father recommended a place called Da Badó. The food was interesting and different, and very tasty. However, I think many of us just wanted a simple meal – like a plate of pasta. Fred, Lisa, Maria, and I went to Web and Wine for a drink before heading back to the hotel and calling it a night.
Nehal : Sep 19, 2005
Two cappuccinos, three croissants, and a yogurt were among the things I ate for breakfast before we started on our way from Casciana Terme to Volterra. The first part of the ride was mostly downhill and flat, with a brief climb to Lajatico. Garry, Lisa, and I stopped along the way to snap some fun photos. In Lajatico, we relaxed in the square for a bit and I got another capucchino (and boy, was it good!) before riding out with Tom and Beth. We rode down and flat again for a while. I tried to race a scooter for a bit , but thought better of it as the climb to Volterra was approaching. The long (6 or so miles) climb was rewarded with stunning views of the surrounding countryside and the city itself. I actually managed to miss the turn for the hotel and rode downhill for a bit before realizing it. So I got to get a little more climbing in for the day.
At the hotel, I helped Huibertha unload and sort the luggage. Fred was already there, and Lisa and others arrived shortly after I did. We ordered a confusing lunch from a confused waitress in the hotel restaurant before I checked in and sent my laundry down for cleaning. At 5PM we met downstairs for a wine tasting with Pedro, the hotel sommelier. A few glasses of wine later, we made our way to the dining room for dinner. I think we were being a little obnoxious, since we were getting funny looks from the other guests. Dinner was nonetheless delicious – papardelle pasta with wild boar sauce, pork chops, and a tuscan cake. Oh, and whatever wine was leftover from the tasting.
A few of us went into Volterra to “Web and Wine” for a while but it was late and we were drunk and tired, so we didn’t stay out too long. Web and Wine was definitely a cool place – very interesting decor and atmosphere, beer on tap, hot chocolate, wine, and, of course, coffee.
Nehal : Sep 18, 2005
Met everyone for breakfast after almost oversleeping. Hit the road to Pisa around 9AM. As everyone was milling about, finding their bikes, I took the opportunity to stash the stuffed puppy into Beth’s bike bag. The ride was a little wet but not rainy, and the cool, cloudy weather definitely helped. We stopped for bit at a coffee house along the way, where I had myself a capucchino.
Pisa
Pisa was a total tourist trap. Peddlers (not the kind on bikes – the kind that want to sell your Roleks watches) and tourist shops and, of course, tons of tourists. We went into the Baptistry, where I played den mother to the 11 of us who opted to go in. Luckily the sun came out for our short stay in Pisa and lunch, and I managed to get some nice pictures, along with the photo I wanted with the tower.
Pisa to Casciana Terme
This part was a little tricky, but we did a good job sticking together. The roads stayed mostly flat nearly the entire way to Casciana Terme, passing through farm land and small tows. Along the way, I tried to snap a few pictures of the group as we rode and I noticed that someone had left me a present in my bike bag – a calendar of artistic penises. I eventually figured out the culprits were Fred and Lisa, so at the next stop I snuck it into Anna’s bag. After another pit stop and more espresso, we started the long climb to Casciana Terme. The road went from asphalt to gravel and back to Asphalt as we approached Sant’Ermo. The road took us down briefly from Sant’Ermo and back up to Casciana Terme; there were some amazing views along the way.
Casciana Terme
We pulled into the hotel and I were helping unload the luggage when I heard, “You’re going to die a slow, terrible death, Nehal” from Anna. Made it up to my room, threw on my swim trunks and joined the others in the lukewarm hot tub. I also decided to swim a couple laps in the cold pool. Before long, I decided I needed a shower and a snack before dinner, lest I pass out. The kind man at the front desk pointed me to the hotel bar, where I had some crackers, chips, and water. Fred, Lisa, and I went across the street to the park where we heard a live band, saw Anna and Patrick dancing, and got a cup of coffee.
Dinner was fun because we were all together, but none too impressive, save the risotto and the gelato. Turned in early again to rest up for a day of hills to Volterra.
Nehal : Sep 17, 2005
Met everyone for breakfast at the hotel buffet, then to start the orientation for the trip, introductions, etc. Our guide for Lucca, Antoinella arrived and we set off on a walking tour of the city walls and the different areas – the Cathedrals, the old Roman Forum, the palace where Elisa (Napoleon’s sister) lived while she ruled Lucca, and the statue of Giacomo Puccini outside his home. We bid farewell to Antoinella at the old Roman Coliseum (now an oval Piazza) and made our way to the Guinigi Tower (the one with the oak trees at the top) to take some pictures and then to find a quick lunch. Antoinella was a great guide – she knew a great deal about the city and its history (apparently, you have to pass a pretty tough test to become a tour guide – and you only get one shot at it). She spoke excellent English, and her accent was an interesting mix of Italian and British English; she seemed to randomly switch between the two.
At 2PM we were ready to go on our first ride – to the Villa Grabau. The ride took us onto the city walls and then outside the city, along a river, and up to the Villa. The ride wasn’t too difficult, other than dealing with the traffic, narrow roads, and being in an unfamiliar place. The villa itself was pretty, but the tour could use some work – not very informative and not a whole lot to see. There was a beautiful garden, but again, not much to see. We rode back to Lucca the way we came, and managed to avoid most of the rain. In town, we stopped a the local bike shop to get Kyle’s bike looked at, pick up some cycling jerseys, socks, and gelato.
After we got back to the hotel, Fred, Lisa, Patrick, Anna, and I went for a quick run around the city walls to work up an appetite.
Dinner took us to the same restaurant, not that it bothered me. We had bruschetta for appetizers, rissoto and tordelli for the first course, and the hare and sliced beef for the second. Dessert brought two types of cakes – one with a ricotta cheese and mixed berry filling, and another with walnuts and figs.
We did not make it out tonight, even though it was Saturday. We were all too full, too tired, and we all had to pack for tomorrow’s ride to Pisa and Casciana Terme.
Nehal : Sep 16, 2005
Took the train from Florence to Lucca. They don’t really tell you which train you need to take, and then they don’t tell you which station is coming up. Luckily the guy sitting next to me was nice enough to tell me when I needed to get ready. At the train station is where another adventure began. I hailed a taxi and told the driver where I needed to go – Hotel Ilaria. We drove partway through Lucca, and then back out towards Pisa. I aked him where the hotel was, and he said it was on the way to Pisa. When we pulled into the Hotel Elise, I told him it wasn’t my hotel. Long story short, he told me not to worry, apologized, and got me to my hotel.
I walked into the hotel and was immediately greeted by a young and incredibly friendly staff. They were able to guess who I was without hardly having said a word. I asked if anyone else from the tour had checked in, and went to go chat with our guides – Mike and Huibertha – as I waited for the others. After sitting in the lobby for a while and reading some books (in Italian), I realized I was hungry. Being almost 2:30, I asked the staff to recommend a place to eat. They called ahead and had the restaurant around the corner hold the kitchen open for me. Wow! Delicious pasta and a t-bone steak. I returned to the hotel to find Fred and Lisa had checked in, so we went out for a walk, found a bar, and had some afternoon wine and snacks.
We returned to the hotel after wandering through town a bit, expecting the others to have arrived. Apparently they got the same recommendation for dinner, and I ordered something light. Some wine, appetizers, and being with friends made for a very enjoyable dinner. It was so nice to be dining with friends again! After dinner, we set out to explore Lucca and find another bar. Along the way, we found a concert in one of the piazzas – a full orchestra and opera singer, on the steps of a buiding, in the open air, under the moon at 10:30. You just don’t see that in the US.
We eventually found a bar and had a couple drinks while watching a ridiculous Italian beauty pageant on TV. Ridiculous becuase all the women were gorgeous, wearing skimpy bikinis, and had to do the “talent” portion in a bikini. Some of them didn’t really have much talent – fixing a woman’s ponytail, coreographed martial arts fight, and hitting a target with a bow and arrow – from ten feet away! The real entertainment came from getting Lisa all riled up with our (okay, my) mysogynistic comments.